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A HISTORICAL TRAVELLER'S PASSPORT

Charles Darwin

The voyage of HMS Beagle · 1831–1836

17countries
45stops
1.7× the Earth

Joining the stops in straight lines

🇨🇻 🇧🇷 🇺🇾 🇦🇷 🇫🇰 🇨🇱 🇵🇪 🇪🇨 🇵🇫 🇳🇿 🇦🇺 🇨🇨 🇲🇺 🇿🇦 🇸🇭 🇵🇹 🇬🇧

The survey ship HMS Beagle left Plymouth on 27 December 1831 and returned to Falmouth on 2 October 1836. Darwin, aged 22, sailed as the naturalist and spent much of the voyage ashore, collecting fossils, rocks, animals and plants. His record of the journey became the Journal of Researches (The Voyage of the Beagle) and the starting point of his later work on evolution.

  1. 1832-01
    🇨🇻 Praia, Santiago island

    His first landing; walking inland he reached the celebrated baobab tree and noted in his diary that its bark was covered with visitors' initials and dates.

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  2. 1832-02
    🇧🇷 St Paul's Rocks

    On 16 February he landed with Captain FitzRoy and found the seabirds so tame that they could easily be killed.

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  3. 1832-02
    🇧🇷 Fernando de Noronha

    The ship stayed only one day, which Darwin spent wandering through the forest that covered the whole island; they sailed that night.

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  4. 1832-02

    On 3 March he walked the lower town by the wharves, comparing its narrow streets and tall houses to the old town of Edinburgh, and visited one of the principal churches.

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    SALVADOR DA BAHIABRAZIL · WHC 309183212.97°S 38.50°W
  5. 1832-03
    🇧🇷 Abrolhos Islands

    On 29 March he landed on the uninhabited rocky islets and collected insects and plants while others killed large numbers of birds.

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  6. 1832-04

    He lodged in a cottage at Botafogo, and on 27 April walked to the Botanic Garden, where several acres were planted with tea.

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    RIO DE JANEIROBRAZIL · WHC 1100183222.95°S 43.29°W
  7. 1832-07
    🇺🇾 Montevideo

    On 5 August, when FitzRoy was asked to help put down a mutiny, Darwin marched through the streets to the fort with 50 armed men from the ship.

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  8. 1832-09
    🇦🇷 Punta Alta (Bahía Blanca)

    On 22 September he found fossil teeth and bones of giant extinct mammals in the conglomerate of low cliffs.

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  9. 1832-11
    🇦🇷 Buenos Aires

    He wrote that the city was one of the most regular in the world, every street crossing at right angles and the houses grouped in blocks called quadras.

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  10. 1832-12
    🇦🇷 Tierra del Fuego (Bay of Good Success)

    Going ashore he met native Fuegians for the first time and called it the most curious and interesting spectacle he had ever beheld.

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  11. 1833-03
    🇫🇰 Falkland Islands (Port Louis)

    Arriving just after British rule was re-established, he found ancient fossils like those he had seen in Wales.

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  12. 1833-04
    🇺🇾 Maldonado

    He described the town as really a small village with a church on its central plaza, and said he had never seen so quiet and deserted a place.

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  13. 1833-10
    🇦🇷 Santa Fe

    Delayed here by illness, he was puzzled to find a horse tooth in the same rock layer as the fossil casing of a huge armadillo.

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  14. 1833-12
    🇦🇷 Port Desire (Puerto Deseado)

    The ship put in on 23 December, and the next day Darwin shot a guanaco that provided the crew's Christmas meal.

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  15. 1834-01
    🇦🇷 Port St Julian (Puerto San Julián)

    In cliffs near the harbour he found fossil pieces of the spine and a hind leg of a large animal he guessed was a mastodon.

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  16. 1834-04
    🇦🇷 Santa Cruz River

    From 19 April he and FitzRoy's party hauled boats up the river until they neared the Andes and had to turn back.

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  17. 1834-06
    🇨🇱 Chiloé Island (San Carlos, now Ancud)

    He collected lignite and petrified wood, at least two pieces of which were found in the British Geological Survey's collection in 2011.

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  18. 1834-07
    🇨🇱 Valparaíso

    Arriving on 23 July, he walked the surrounding country, then obtained horses and set off for the Andes on 14 August.

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  19. 1834-08
    🇨🇱 Cerro La Campana (Bell Mountain)

    On 17 August he climbed the shattered greenstone that crowns the summit and spent the day at the top.

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  20. 1834-08
    🇨🇱 Santiago

    He reached Santiago after visiting a copper mine and spending five days scrambling in the mountains.

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  21. 1835-02
    🇨🇱 Valdivia

    On 20 February he was ashore when a severe earthquake struck, and returned to find the port town badly damaged.

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  22. 1835-03
    🇨🇱 Concepción

    He found the city wrecked by the same earthquake and tsunami, even the cathedral in ruins, while FitzRoy found mussel beds lifted above high tide.

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  23. 1835-03
    🇦🇷 Mendoza (crossing of the Andes)

    He crossed the divide by the Portillo Pass to Mendoza, and on the return by a different pass found a forest of fossil trees in a sandstone escarpment.

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  24. 1835-06
    🇨🇱 Copiapó

    He travelled north overland from Valparaíso by way of Coquimbo and rejoined the Beagle here on 5 July.

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  25. 1835-07
    🇨🇱 Iquique

    On 13 July he rode 14 leagues to the saltpetre works and spent the night at a mine owner's house.

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  26. 1835-07
    🇵🇪 Lima (Callao)

    He wrote that Lima was in a wretched state of decay with its streets nearly unpaved, though its extraordinary number of churches gave it a striking character.

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  27. 1835-09

    On 16 September he spent his first hour ashore at what is now Cerro Tijeretas, and his first field note recorded a mockingbird like those on the mainland.

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    GALAPAGOS ISLANDSECUADOR · WHC 118350.67°S 90.55°W
  28. 1835-09

    The acting governor Nicholas Lawson told him he could tell from a tortoise's shell which island it came from.

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    GALAPAGOS ISLANDSECUADOR · WHC 118350.67°S 90.55°W
  29. 1835-10

    On 1 October he landed near Tagus Cove, explored Beagle Crater and saw his first Galápagos land iguanas.

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    GALAPAGOS ISLANDSECUADOR · WHC 118350.67°S 90.55°W
  30. 1835-10

    He was put ashore for nine days with the surgeon Benjamin Bynoe and their servants, collecting specimens of every kind.

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    GALAPAGOS ISLANDSECUADOR · WHC 118350.67°S 90.55°W
  31. 1835-11
    🇵🇫 Tahiti

    He made an excursion into the mountainous interior, through deep ravines with a succession of waterfalls.

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  32. 1835-12
    🇳🇿 Bay of Islands (Paihia, Waimate)

    On 23 December he visited the missionaries' farm at Waimate, about 15 miles inland from the bay.

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  33. 1836-01
    🇦🇺 Sydney

    He hired a man and two horses and rode to Bathurst, about 120 miles inland, and back.

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  34. 1836-01
    🇦🇺 Blue Mountains (Weatherboard, Govett's Leap)

    Near the Weatherboard inn he looked down into a valley about 1,500 feet deep, and the next morning walked about three miles to see Govett's Leap.

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  35. 1836-02
    🇦🇺 Hobart

    He spent five and a half hours climbing Mount Wellington, whose 3,100-foot summit gave a wide view.

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  36. 1836-03
    🇦🇺 King George Sound (Albany)

    He provided boiled rice for a corroboree danced by the men of two Aboriginal tribes.

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  37. 1836-04
    🇨🇨 Cocos (Keeling) Islands

    He examined the atoll's structure in light of the theory he had formed in Lima, that reefs become atolls as an island sinks.

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  38. 1836-04
    🇲🇺 Port Louis, Mauritius

    The Surveyor-general Captain Lloyd took him on the island's only elephant to see an elevated coral plain.

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  39. 1836-06
    🇿🇦 Cape Town

    Around 15 June he and FitzRoy visited the astronomer Sir John Herschel, which he called in his diary the most memorable event for a long period.

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  40. 1836-07
    🇸🇭 St Helena

    He lodged within a stone's throw of Napoleon's tomb and spent four days walking over the island to study its geology.

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  41. 1836-07
    🇸🇭 Ascension Island

    He climbed Green Hill, 2,840 feet high, and from there walked across the island to the windward point.

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  42. 1836-08
    🇧🇷 Recife (Pernambuco)

    He recorded as the most curious sight the reef that forms the harbour, running for several miles in a perfectly straight line.

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  43. 1836-08
    🇧🇷 Olinda ›

    He went up a channel by canoe to the old town, finding it cleaner than Pernambuco, but two houses refused to let him cross their gardens to reach a viewpoint.

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    TOWN OF OLINDABRAZIL · WHC 18918368.01°S 34.84°W
  44. 1836-09

    Going ashore on the evening of 20 September, he found the town of about 10,000 people clean and tidy; the next day he rode to steaming fissures in the centre of the island.

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    CENTRO HISTÓRICO DE…PORTUGAL · WHC 206183638.66°N 27.22°W
  45. 1836-10
    🇬🇧 Falmouth

    Landing on the stormy night of 2 October, he took the mail coach straight away for his family home in Shrewsbury, arriving late on 4 October.

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